Travel Tips: Montreux, Switzerland

Montreux! Chic, Cher et chaud! 

Save the Best For Last ! 

Montreux, in the French speaking part of Geneva, is like the French Riviera Rich famous Monaco but 20x bigger. Similar to Lausanne’s situational geography, it is very hilly because it’s built up on the Alps down to the lake, but Montreux is ultra wealthy with  hundreds of villas,  a few castles and a botanical paradise along every inch of Lake Geneva. Therefore, loved by the rich and famous. If the real estate is only for millionaires with the right currency, the botanical part (incredible amount of beautiful old trees, flowers, fauna, fountains, all immaculately kept) must be worth billions too. 

Montreal is musical, artistic, very French and very pricey,  mostly up market, but relaxed with no loud noisy cafés in the main tourist hubs. Did I mention hilly? Upon arriving by train, walking along the main street to get to the lake, I saw loads of steps and as I still had my suitcase, although light, was damned if I was going to walk the stairs back up in the heat to the Airbnb after. Fortunately, along the way there are different passages where you can take a lift , four  floors below to get to the lake.

The first thing I did was to visit the Freddie Mercury statue, as he recorded 6 albums in Montreux, “A kind of Magic” in 1986 being one of them.  Needless to say, whenever I passed the statue again there were always tourists taking photographs.

I stayed 300m from the old town “vielle ville” a 10 min walk uphill, which takes 15, due to heat and height, after the lift from the lake, four floors up.  But views are amazing as Montreux, is nestled between  Lake Geneva, and the best part of the contour rich , deeply forested, cascading Alpes.   Unfortunately, due to a heat wave, and  lake haze, the Alpes and sky were barely indistinguishable on photo. But it’s a photographer’s paradise. So much to see, really impressionable! 

Montreux is famous for its jazz festival. My favourite rendition of Prince’s “All the Critics” is the live version from Montreux, 2014. In fact the famous song “Smoke on the water” is about a fire that once hit the festival. I missed the July festival but there are nice reminders of it all over. It’s equivalent to Rotterdam’s North Sea jazz. They are run by a Philanthropic Foundation to encourage the arts. Which reminds me…. In my over priced Airbnb, (but lovely, with lake views) I could hear a kids’ choir practice with piano, singing to Beethovens 5th, Hava Naguila and other famous songs. It was super special! On another walk uphill home, the conservatorium had violin practice. Montreux is arty, musical and naturally beautiful which is probably why Freddy Mercury recorded so much of his material here, in a mansion somewhere along the coast nearer Chateau de Chillion. His statute on the Geneva shore must have by now, a trillion shots with tourists! 

Boulevard strolling 

  

my shadow in a massive bark of a tree trunk. 

A statue playing the violin on a boat  

 The old town “vieux ville” is lovely. Winding narrow medieval streets, over little bridges (catching the water flow from above),  well kept ancient houses, shutters in every colour, thick wrought iron balconies, with  fountains and pools along the way. A car would be necessary to cruise the lake, from the upper  three rows of Alpes mountainous roads at different height levels. But there is a huge freedom without a car and so much more can be seen by ambling through history’s every nook and cranny, stopping whenever and wherever you want. Taking the road less travelled … off the beaten path. 

Basic gardens have luxurious palms, tall cypresses, ancient trees and the entire lake boulevard is a botanical museum in itself.  Inspiring for back home! 

Now and then a Lamborghini passes by on these tiny medieval streets! 

A very sharp corner heading up the mountain - most houses all have shutters against the sun, like Italy and Spain. 

Fountains along the way 

Traffic round about. Lake is on the right 

Typical villas…

Switzerland is expensive and Montreux, like southern France and Paris, overpriced. A basic French restaurant summer meal, Bouef et frites, thinly sliced cold beef, with a tiny lettuce salad (gorgeous dressing) and bowl of tartare is 25 Ch francs, which is 27 euro. I was surprised that few places sold iced coffee, unlike Turkey and Greece. But service was generally much friendlier and helpful than France. Despite the ample Lamborghinis and high class residential  real estate amongst the lovely monumental icons. 

Chateau de Chillon from 1532

Chateau Chillion is a 45 minute  walk from the old town but it took me five hours there and back! Which is why I mostly travel alone! So much to stop and admire along the way! Real interesting fun fact. All around town from high up in the mountain, to the water’s edge of Lake Geneva, stone open running water tunnels run under bridges through the suburbs.  I presume to catch the melting snow and rain from above as it’s really steep, built on the Alpes. All along the lake you are shaded by old trees, weeping willows and so many different trees and flower beds I was in 7th Heaven. A  botanical  riviera. On the lake there are big rocks, a few little swimming beach spots along the way, so refreshing, and the lake had very few motor boats. More yachts and canoes or paddle boarders. One couple with their dog and music speaker on the tiny board as well! 

      

    

  An absolutely beautiful walk the whole way!     

           

One of the steep waterways : see the stairs on the right? There are many stairways up or you take the longer winding road route with a gentler incline.

The waterways at the bottom lake edge 

 I was so happy on my last day that it actually rained! The smell of it on the hot roads smelt like SA. Likewise, it was just a quick shower. After training back to Geneva, there was also a rainbow while waiting for take off. Fitting for this, another, beautiful part of Switzerland. 

Montreux… beautiful, sassy and grateful to have spent some time here. Cheers to Freddy Mercury! Oui… C’est une sortie de magie!