KRAKOW, POLAND - TRAVEL TIPS

Krakow has been a must see destination for many Europeans for a long time and I finally understand why. I think it might even trump Prague, which I saw exquisitely decked out in snow at- 8 in 2001. There was no snow, in Krakow, it was freezing cold, grey and rainy without the famous Prague bridge and castle on the hill, but the atmosphere and setting with its Christmas market, massive square, authentic architectural avenues and beautiful churches Krakow is almost other worldly quaint. It’s a kind of mixture between Old Parisian Belgian Gent, Edinburgh Scottish real browns, captivating Portuguese  Sintra and French Canadian Quebec! What a place!! 

 

MAIN CHURCH ON SQUARE 

I stayed quite close to Wawel Castle which is up on a slight hill when you walk around it’s huge cobbled stone grounds. From Debinicki you can cross either bridge, left or right and walk the bend of the river. Going right is a longer walk but you can incorporate the Jewish quarter on the right after the bridge, before doing the castle. Going left, the other way across the closest bridge leads through a mini-park with beautiful trees and monument. Doing both walks gives different views and arrival points before the main Castle gate which seems to always be open. There are also gorgeous apartments next to the castle if you take the steps and not the ascending path to the castle gate. What a place this must be to live in! Definitely visit the castle at night too as you will see it and Krakow lit up prettily. As far as castles go, Krakow’s is absolutely stunning, even in winter! It's fabulous that you walk around the courtyards, along the wall, and past the mythical Dragon's Den both day and night which both  deliver a distinctly different atmosphere! Views from the castle wall over the city too are lovely. I saw it fairly sordid weather yet it was still thoroughly enjoyable so I can imagine what it must be like in the snow.

INSIDE THE COURTYARD

 VIEWS FROM INSIDE THE CASTLE WALL OVER TOWN 

 

DRAGON'S DEN ALONG CASTLE WALL 

VISTULA RIVER AND OTHER ROUTE

Depending on time you have, take different  routes into town to the Stare Miasto with its museum and clock tower. Definitely pay to get in because it's quaint and although a long walk up, it's worth it. There are small rooms displaying history so you get a breather in between and just hang onto the chain banister up and down, because it’s cobblestone stairway is narrow, darkish and quite steep. There is no balcony at the top but windows to take photos through.

The ambience on the main square is something I haven’t experienced before. Firstly, the inside market is in a monumental columned building and the tiny stalls under cover, three metres wide on both sides, (hall being about 100 metres long) lit up delightfully, selling exquisite diverse things from trinkets, winter accessories, to plates, souvenirs etc etc. There is also entertainment every now and then to entertain the crowds as they move through the middle. What I like about Polish souvenirs is that they are mostly all practical things that you can use. Woodwork, kitchenware and winter woolies. The shops for winter wear are the best I’ve ever seen. I never knew winter hats and gloves could come in such a variety!

THE MARKET HALL ON THE MAIN SQUARE WITH INDOOR STALLS 

The main square is a paradise banquet for the eyes, and a hub of human activity, where history, cultures and ambience of Christmas melt into one. Delicious tasty Polish cuisine, such as sheep's cheese grilled with a rash of bacon, diverse sausage and vegetables plus hot and steamy drinks for every palette. Polish food is great. Goulash, dumplings, delicate deserts and sour rye soup actually served in a round bread! Also lovely potato pancakes with sour cream. Trotting around on the cobblestone square are white carriages drawn by horses, their hooves, bells and ornate dressings all adding to the fairy tale atmosphere, as they circle past the huge Christmas trees and sidewalk cafes with cosy fires and lights. There are two tall towers, one of a church and the other the Wieza Ratuszowa Town Hall tower which is a museum.  and views over the market place. For New Year there were  cultural and classical music concerts on one stage, with with another stage set up for New Year's Eve concerts with Polish hip-hop entertainers and musicians.  There is also a tiny chapel which seats exactly 16 people and services are given. In fact I saw a few around town. There are literally 4 small pews on either side and the building architecture consists of a dome on top of a small square area approximately 30 square metres. 

Also, all over town the city has xmas decorations in blue and gold with ball like decorations or angel wings for all tourists to use as photo backgrounds. They really do cater for visitors. Restaurants and cafes are delicately and tastefully decorated for xmas. There are benches and bins everywhere and literally a little surprise around every corner with sparkling xmas blue and silver lighting across main pedestrian shopping streets. There are also huge flicks of doves which circle the square from roof to roof and it makes for a pretty picture if you can get it. There were also scores of xmas trees, two large decorated ones, next to the monument and many just used as a perimeter for the oudoor xmas market.

 XMAS MARKET AND LIGHTS

Part of the beauty of Krakow apart from its main square  is that the entire old town is enclosed by a park along its entire perimeter, leaving the centre to pedestrians only and trams and cars run outside the park and parallel across one inner street on the way to the Mary Magdalena Square with its famous church and statues. From the town square, follow the long street, Grodska that leads back to the Castle.  The layout is fairly logical so take various  side streets and visit the churches you pass inside, especially the one near Copernicus square. I even stayed for a bit of a service to admire the elaborate while and gold artwork. There are also a couple of synagogues and tiny chapels around, so visit them all for they are utterly charming!

PARK ENCIRCLING THE HISTORIC CENTRE

MARY MAGDALENA SQUARE CLOSER TO THE CASTLE END IN GRODSKA STREET

I had decided to buy a 72 hour public transport car to get around (35 zloty) as the weather was grey and drizzly, however the more I walked and discovered the 72 hours became a 36, and eventually I didn't buy one at all. Krakow is small and can done by foot but not that small that you won’t be walking at least five hours a day, if you are adventurous and want to see everything of course. The outskirts though of the historic centre are just as pretty to wander through, there are surprises on almost every street and corner and it's worth every pace you make to pick up the atmosphere of this charming European city! There are war monuments, churches, the park, university and authentic monumental buildings down interesting avenues. Also Copernicus square and small size squares. Having flown in from Warsaw Frederic Chopin airport, it was a special memorable experience waiting for the flight to Krakow when a stranger sat down and played Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata on the grand piano near the boarding gate.

 I flew with Polish airlines which were pretty efficient, and the only real difficulty in Poland was that not many spoke English if you were lost. There were many French, German and Russian tourists and it was busy but the city’s main area and UNESCO heritage center manages to diffuse the crowds. I had planned to go to the famous Saltmine but really, Krakow was so beautiful, I needed every hour of my three days for the city.  So I will have to return to Malopolska province to visit it and next time add  Zakopane, the mountainous area further in the south bordering on Czech Republic to the itinerary.   The more Eastern European countries I visit the more I want to travel east. There is still Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Lithuania, Estonia, and Latvia to visit.  One day I will get to Russia. It might be cold but Eastern Europe is special in an enchanting way! And if Krakow is not on your travel list, it should be... but.... right at the top!

 GODESKA STREET NEAR CASTLE END

Please note, all photos are copyrighted to myself. ©