WARSAW - POLAND TRAVEL TIPS

Most people say Warsaw is not worth visiting if you go to Poland and that Krakow is the place to be. However, Polish Airlines have good deals where you arrive at 09:00am in Warsaw and can spend an eight hour stop over for a short exploration, flying into Krakow in the early evening. The latter flight is only 45 minutes and it’s two hours to Warsaw from Amsterdam. Arriving at Frederic Chopin airport, I tried to find the luggage storage closets but after thirty minutes of searching I decided to just take my hand luggage trolley with me. 

Bus 175 outside arrivals takes you into town. Ticket machines were busy so if that’s the case, buy your ticket on the bus. The drive is about 20 minutes and although many stops the driver only focuses on driving no ticketing! I saw some lovely locals, as Poles stand out with their clear milk complexions that seldom see much sun and  clear blue eyes. I got out at The Palace of Culture and Science, which is a tall landmark building, similar to the Empire State Building but smaller and jokingly referred to as “Stalin’s penis”. It is located among some other quite nice modern architecture and close to the central railway station. An impressive building outside and in, you can go up to the top for aerial views over the city by lift for 16 zloti which is about 4 euro.

 

Part of the entrance below

My advice is not to walk to the historical “center” Stare Miastro in the Old City because it’s quite a way and there’s not much to see, even though streets are wide and there’s plenty of space. As it’s a big city, with wide outer roads for cars and trams, it also takes a while to get to a pedestrian crossing. You need to take the stairs underneath  intersections,  and cross the roads that way. There are little shops and kiosks to entertain you as you try out each entrance to see if it's the bus or tram stop you're looking for :)  To get to the old city you’ll be looking for Bus direction Stare Miesto the stop where you get on being Swietokrzyska. Asking for directions is not always helpful, as tourists will speak English but they’re as lost as you are and not all Polish speak much English. The signboards, menus and receipts in local places are all quite easy to read though! From the main road where you get off to go into the old town and square is a precious walk through history. You'll pass the university and Chopin square on delicate European pedestrian streets that are always a feast for the eyes.

  

 
 

The pedestrian centre streets are wide with cycle tracks with characteristic tall arching lanterns.  I saw few bikes, and as the streets are quite long, without, you will need good legs to do the walking! One sees pictures of Warsaw but the old Market main Castle square with the Royal Palace about 1.5 kms from Copernicus square,  is literally stunning!!  Even in cold dark dismal weather. It’s bright, colourful, and hosts a spectacular mix of architecture and colour. Take a ticket for  a walk in a Castle column to ascend its many, many steps because it’s really worthwhile. The view at the top over the square and Vistula River is breathtaking just as it is from downstairs but both have separate charm. One you gaze up in wonder the other you gaze down bewildered! Imagining that this square was once completely bombed but was re-built gives a sentimental feeling and respect for Warsaw's history and culture. Pictures above are from the square itself and a church along the way and photos below from the Castle Tower.

 

 

 

 

Around monumental areas you will find black marble benches with a short history of Chopin. Press play for classical pieces honouring his legacy, and Polish birthplace. There is also a  Marie Curie museum which I alas did not have time to find or visit.

 
CHOPIN BENCH
 

It’s worth walking back to the Science and Culture museum because you pass one of the most memorable monuments ever. It is at the foot of a big city park which has a huge goblet and statues lining it. I presume the goblet has a fountain in summer. 

 
CENTRAL PARK 

 

The monument is a tribute to “the Unknown Soldier” and it is an undercover pillar columned terrace,  hosting a large urn with an ongoing flame, a mass of flowers in wreaths and two armed guards who stand there 24/7!! They were so still I had to check they were not statues. Dressed in long light green army coats, they were relieved of their duty as three new guards appeared from afar in marching style. Their weapons have a kind of bayonet on top and after a perfected ritual, the “sergeant” leaves two new guards.  It was fascinating!! Very natural, serious and real.

 
TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER
 

 The monument is in honor of the 200 thousand who lost their lives in the 1945 Warsaw Uprising against Nazi German occupation, which although 63 days, ultimately failed.  It really is the most beautiful war monument I’ve ever seen though because it lives and burns, guarded daily like an eternal flame. 

 

So Warsaw is definitely worth visiting.  It’s a large city, extremely quiet I found for a Saturday, but prices are reasonable, and it is just as worth visiting say,  Pisa in Italy.  If you’d like to go the new town after the Old town Market Place of Rynek Stare Miastro then you should walk to the Barbican fortification. I didn't and instead head for the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, thereafter, taking shelter from the cold in a cosy restaurant with a view of the Science and Culture Museum before heading back to the airport for the flight to Krakow. Warsaw has  reminded me to pull out my old DVD of The Pianist to watch it again.