Travel tips: Albania, Lake Orhid and Pogradec

The Macedonian Lake Orchid is shared with Albania, albeit it only  30%. As I was staying in Peshtani on the lake which is 30 minutes from the border it was easy to take a long all day trip. 

Like Macedonia, Albania have had a long struggle for independence. It is an old country but has been conquered many times. First by the Greeks, Romans, the Byzantium empire, then under the Ottomans, fascist Italy’s Mussolini, and then after WWII communist rule. We also then remember the recent Yugoslavian Balkan war not long ago. It is hard therefore not to have conditioned thinking about what Albania is like and fortunately, after a day trip the taste of it is encouraging. 

Border crossing 

Around the lake

Rural countryside

Lake Orchid is a massive lake, with big smooth stony beaches and reeds along its edge, below the encircling backdrop of a mountain range 670 metres above sea level. The Albanian currency is the lek but tourists from Macedonia can pay in Dinar. The exchange rate is meant to be 100 dinar equaling 50 lek but at the four star big hotel we stopped at it was basically 75 dinar. But at such low prices, good service and coffee with Albanian who can complain. The only small coastal place on the lake, Pogradec is well maintained and the main hotel has places a sand beach. There are lovely gardens, a park, with many trees for shade and cute restaurants and cafes on the water. 

 Lake side terraces and cafes 

 

Beachfront park  
 

 

Mosques and churches in old city

 

The tour through the old town hosts some interesting little balconies against modern luxurious apartments of Albanians who work abroad and are this considered Kong’s in their country. Purely because the exchange rate is so much in their favour. Pogradec has Albanians and Macedonians and has a few little churches and mosques. I didn’t see any head scarves or hijabs though, only bikini clad swimmers on the beach. 

 

We walked through town to visit a lovely little chapel with decorated walls of frescos from the 1800s which were really pretty! The stone cool floors were  also welcoming. There were pretty shaded gardens and a tortoise also seeking coolness on the stone cobbled floor. 

 

 

 

  

Another visitor seeking coolness from the sun heat at 38 degrees

In the old city part, along the canal which is half filled with water, the Romani population sell their second hand goods.  They are not troublesome or badgering in any way though as they are in some places. Walking back to the waterfront, one passes tiny shops, hairdressers and the like which are literally 8 sq meter. There are also plenty of fresh fruit and vegetable markets. I also saw watermelons being kept cool in a little street alleyway canal! 

 

Canal in Pogredec and Romani market 

View while walking through town back on the hilltops

From the old city church, We walked the European street with all its pavement tiles dedicated to writers, poets, and famous people of the last five hundred years, such as Coco Chanel, Shakespeare, and here the Spanish Cervantes. China and the west have invested much into Albania, although the Chinese chrome factory was shut down in the mid 80’s as it didn’t meet safety standards. 

Driving through Albanian countryside shows many agricultural farms growing predominantly corn. What was unusual was that each farm seems to have one animal only. So every kilometer or so there will be a lone cow, donkey, goat or horse grazing alone. Healthy looking though. Lunch was had out of Pogradec further along the lake  banks in a place hosting a monument dedicated to the young Albanian men from the villages who lost their lives in the Yugoslavian war. 

 Lin

 

We travelled in total 84 Kms if the lake, driving to the small inlet of Lin after lunch. It’s a tiny village, not used to tourists although there is one nice souvenir shop. Tip: Don’t take any pictures of the people walking their village hills with wheelbarrows as one old lady went absolutely nuts. The locals are extremely poor, although there are some nice cute little houses. Despite the house wealth they all have feed tourists pay a lot of money for. All gardens have grape vines for shaded terraces as the heat there is literally unbearable. 38 degrees, not a hint of wind or lake breeze. Interesting were the two purple houses, and two donkeys in a front yard of about 30 m squared. 

 

 

  

Typical grapevine rooftops 

Purple modern wealthier houses   

 Walking to the hill of the village is punishing in the heat, as the climax of sun really lasts from 12-17pm in these parts. But there is a lovely view from the top which hosts the old broken remains of a Christian Church.  

Leaving Albania, driving through back through the mountains there are bunkers where families hid during the Yugoslavian war.  Albania is opening itself up to western tourism and it’s history is still very much part and parcel of its cultural identity. Even in Macedonia, driving to and from Skopje there were some cemeteries where Albanian flags flew, over many white small tombstones. A young Polish hotel animator I met and spoke to told me that she had done animation summer jobs on the tourist Adriatic side of Albania three months in the previous year and that she had loved it. So I guess it must be another future trip to discover. However, the introduction to the Lake side and villages was an absolute pleasure! The Albanians we met were friendly and helpful. Bon voyage and in the following weeks, join me to hear about, Macedonia and the fabulous Lake Orhid and its capital, Skopje.