EGYPT & DIVING - TRAVEL TIPS

Although I passed through Cairo recently, I have yet to visit the great pyramids of Giza or the infamous Sphinx. I remember visiting the Egyptian museum in London many year ago and being enthralled. Egypt has a sense of mystery and wonder for everyone. Hieroglyphics, ancient Pharaoh tombs, it seems to have a sense of magical history long past wrapped in centuries and millennia of untold secrets.

Many people if they don't visit Cairo go to Sharm-El-Sheik but my trip took me to Hurghada in 2001. Diving in the Red Sea is phenomenal. Visibility is fantastic and on this trip the coral reefs, metres high are still memorable. We also saw a huge moray eel , literally about 50 cm wide and three metres long, plus sting rays and plenty of colourful fish. So firstly, if you're a diver, Egypt is for you.

At most hotels and places you can camel ride, just as in Tunisia which is customary for tourists in northern Africa if you want to get a feel for Arabia. The weather of course is divine, although you'll need a wet suit for the Red Sea. Sunsets are beautiful, hotel architecture and recreational mall outings are like being in a mosque and you really feel you are in a culturally rich place with ancient heritage. The people are friendly and although not many are about in the street, and barely no women in tourist destinations, you'll always be offered tea and a chat before buying anything while you shop. Take advantage because the air-conditioned places are a god send away from the ever burning son.

 

 Hurghada is a few hours away from Luxor where the Valley of the Kings is and that was the cultural part of the trip.  We drove in convoy with tourist mini-buses and I can tell you it was lovely scenery but pretty scary. One feels quite lost as you drive through barren desert landscape with only long winding roads and the drivers have great fun in overtaking particularly on sharp corners. I seriously wondered if we were going to make it home back to the hotel! On the way to Luxor we visited a papyrus factory which is interesting and also the alabaster pottery makers who work in tiny shaded tin shacks in the middle of nowhere. Stopping at restaurants along the way you'll find the customary shisha-pipe and the sweet smelling coal is lovely coming from all those lovely hubbly bubblies.

The Valley of the Kings was magnificent. Against these tall ice pink shadowed mountains there's a vastness and emptiness of history which I think you can only feel in a place like Egypt.  There is a train at the bottom which takes you up and there are different tombs to visit. I don't think I've ever been so hot in my life before. It was October but boiling and inside the tombs, along the narrow pathways even though you are inside the rock mountains and underground you will sweat incessantly. I wore a think cotton white punjabi suit which was a little help. But the walk and heat are worth it as its a little organised maze with hieroglyphics on the walls and they only let in a certain amount of tourists at a time.  Eventually you reach a tiny tomb way underground and one thinks of all the effort and labour it must have taken to bury their kings so long ago together with all their treasures.

 On the way to Luxor there or back you will also visit Karnak temple which has these huge massive pillars and statues, some in ruin and it's incredible to think of the mastery and engineering that it took to move these heavy structures so long ago. Guides will lead you around and there are restaurants and souvenir shops.  A short stop on the excursion is also made at the Colossi of Memnon where there are two huge ancient Egyptian sandstone statues.

Luxor temple

 

The Nile driving back at sunset was magical. Along the river are rich luscious green parts and palm trees and others are barren with broken down houses with no roofs and obviously many people living in poverty.  The short stop at a city was fascinating as the heat of the day was wearing off and as dusk approached the mosque tradition was heard on loud speakers and with all the ancient, hot, dusty and old fashioned surroundings with basic shops and transport, one cannot feel more in Egypt.  

I've done a few crazy things in life, like parachuting, getting on a plane to an unknown place and not knowing when I'll return, leaving a country to start in another just for fun and I've kissed an Egyptian cobra on its head! Of course, the snake man, who did the show at the hotel, had drugged them. It took a while for the three volunteers to do what was asked and I was quite terrified though I will admit it did get me over my fear of snakes. Hotels run good animation programmes and entertainment every night as in Egypt you do tend to be stuck in the middle of no-where as the country is ginormous.  They had the Sufi-spinning mediating men and lots of exotic belly dancing with hypnotic tribal drums.  Egypt has plenty of fascinating culture if you're open to it. The food I found was also delicious. 

Blazing ball of fire

So perfectly round and golden

Throws the sky

Into a canvas of kaleidoscope tints

Riding along the Nile 

Glittering rays of sunshine

Shine boldly through palm trees and luscious reeds

Which the wind gently sways as if blowing its breath

As the sun slips beyond the rugged horizon's edge, leaving

Soft dusk and pearly moon light

It replaces the dancing diamonds on ocean water
With twinkles of subtle moon glow on darker water ripples

 Bye bye Egypt goodbye, one day we'll meet again!